The great pillars are ornamented in
various ways,--some with a great spiral groove running from bottom to
top; others with two spirals, ascending in different directions, so as to
cross over one another; some are fluted or channelled straight up and
down; some are wrought with chevrons, like those on the sleeve of a
police-inspector. There are zigzag cuttings and carvings, which I do not
know how to name scientifically, round the arches of the doors and
windows; but nothing that seems to have flowered out spontaneously, as
natural incidents of a grand and beautiful design. In the nave, between
the columns of the side aisles, I saw one or two monuments. . . . .
The cathedral service is very long; and though the choral part of it is
pleasant enough, I thought it not best to wait for the sermon, especially
as it would have been quite unintelligible, so remotely as I sat in the
great space. So I left my seat, and after strolling up and down the
aisle a few times, sallied forth into the churchyard. On the cathedral
door there is a curious old knocker, in the form of a monstrous face,
which was placed there, centuries ago, for the benefit of fugitives from
justice, who used to be entitled to sanctuary here. The exterior of the
cathedral, being huge, is therefore grand; it has a great central tower,
and two at the western end; and reposes in vast and heavy length, without
the multitude of niches, and crumbling statues, and richness of detail,
that make the towers and fronts of some cathedrals so endlessly
interesting.
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