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Hawthorne, Nathaniel, 1804-1864

"Passages from the English Notebooks, Complete"

. . . . I was quite chilled through, and the old verger
regretted that we had not come during the late hot weather, when the
everlasting damp and chill of the spot would have made us entirely
comfortable. These crypts originated in the necessity of keeping the
floor of the upper cathedral on one level, the edifice being built on a
declivity, and the height of the crypt being measured by the descent of
the site.
After writing the above, we walked out and saw something of the newer
portion of Glasgow; and, really, I am inclined to think it the stateliest
of cities. The Exchange and other public buildings, and the shops in
Buchanan Street, are very magnificent; the latter, especially, excelling
those of London. There is, however, a pervading sternness and grimness
resulting from the dark gray granite, which is the universal
building-material both of the old and new edifices. Later in the
forenoon we again walked out, and went along Argyle Street, and through
the Trongate and the Salt-Market. The two latter were formerly the
principal business streets, and together with High Street, the abode of
the rich merchants and other great people of the town. High Street, and,
still more, the Salt-Market, now swarm with the lower orders to a degree
which I never witnessed elsewhere; so that it is difficult to make one's
way among the sullen and unclean crowd, and not at all pleasant to
breathe in the noisomeness of the atmosphere.


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