The soldier's
most romantic story was of a daughter of Lord Scroope, a former governor
of the castle, when Mary of Scotland was confined here. She attempted to
assist the Queen in escaping, but was shot dead in the gateway by the
warder; and the soldier pointed out the very spot where the poor young
lady fell and died;--all which would be very interesting were there a
word of truth in the story. But we liked our guide for his intelligence,
simplicity, and for the pleasure which he seemed to take, as an episode
of his dull daily life, in talking to strangers. He observed that the
castle walls were solid, and, indeed, there was breadth enough to drive a
coach and four along the top; but the artillery of the Crimea would have
shelled them into ruins in a very few hours. When we got back to the
guard-house, he took us inside, and showed the dismal and comfortless
rooms where soldiers are confined for drunkenness, and other offences
against military laws, telling us that he himself had been confined
there, and almost perished with cold. I should not much wonder if he
were to get into durance again, through misuse of the fee which I put
into his hand at parting.
The cathedral is at no great distance from the castle; and though the
streets are mean and sordid in the vicinity, the close has the antique
repose and shadowy peace, at once domestic and religious, which seem
peculiar and universal in cathedral closes. The foundation of this
cathedral church is very ancient, it having been the church portion of an
old abbey, the refectory and other remains of which are still seen around
the close.
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