From the chapter-house he ushered us back into the nave,
ever and anon pointing out some portion of the edifice more ancient than
the rest, and when I asked him how he knew this, he said that he had
learnt it from the archaeologists, who could read off such things like a
book. This guide was a lively, quick-witted man, who did his business
less by rote, and more with a vivacious interest, than any guide I ever
met.
After leaving the cathedral we sought out the Yacht Inn, near the
water-gate. This was, for a long period of time, the principal inn of
Chester, and was the house at which Swift once put up, on his way to
Holyhead, and where he invited the clergy to come and sup with him. We
sat down in a small snuggery, conversing with the landlord. The Chester
people, according to my experience, are very affable, and fond of talking
with strangers about the antiquities and picturesque characteristics of
their town. It partly lives, the landlord told us, by its visitors, and
many people spend the summer here on account of the antiquities and the
good air. He showed us a broad, balustraded staircase, leading into a
large, comfortable, old-fashioned parlor, with windows looking on the
street and on the Custom House that stood opposite. This was the room
where Swift expected to receive the clergy of Chester; and on one of the
window-panes were two acrid lines, written with the diamond of his ring,
satirizing those venerable gentlemen, in revenge for their refusing his
invitation.
Pages:
596
597
598
599
600
601
602
603
604
605
606
607
608
609
610
611
612
613
614
615
616
617
618
619
620