In the streets, I had noticed that it was a
breezy day; but on the river there was a very stiff breeze from the
northeast, right ahead, blowing directly in our face the whole way; and
truly this river Mersey is never without a breeze, and generally in the
direction of its course,--an evil-tempered, unkindly, blustering wind,
that you cannot meet without being exasperated by it. As it came
straight against us, it was impossible to find a shelter anywhere on
deck, except it were behind the stove-pipe; and, besides, the day was
overcast and threatening rain.
I have undergone very miserable hours on the Mersey, where, in the space
of two years, I voyaged thousands of miles,--and this trip to Runcorn
reminded me of them, though it was less disagreeable after more than a
twelvemonth's respite. We had a good many passengers on board, most of
whom were of the second class, and congregated on the forward deck; more
women than men, I think, and some of them with their husbands and
children. Several produced lunch and bottles, and refreshed themselves
very soon after we started. By and by the wind became so disagreeable
that I went below, and sat in the cabin, only occasionally looking out,
to get a peep at the shores of the river, which I had never before seen
above Eastham. However, they are not worth looking at; level and
monotonous, without trees or beauty of any kind,--here and there a
village, and a modern church, on the low ridge behind; perhaps, a
windmill, which the gusty day had set busily to work.
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