The path along the wall leads, in one place, through a room over the arch
of a gateway,--a low, thick-walled, stone apartment, where doubtless the
gatekeeper used to lodge, and to parley with those who desired entrance.
I found my way to the ferry over the Ouse, according to this kind
Yorkist's instructions. The ferryman told me that the fee for crossing
was a halfpenny, which seemed so ridiculously small that I offered him
more; but this unparalleled Englishman declined taking anything beyond
his rightful halfpenny. This seems so wonderful to me that I can hardly
trust my own memory.
Reaching the station, I got some dinner, and at four o'clock, just as I
was starting, came Mr. Bowman, my very agreeable and sensible travelling
companion. Our journeying together was ended here; for he was to keep on
to London, and I to return to Liverpool. So we parted, and I took the
rail westward across England, through a very beautiful, and in some
degree picturesque, tract of country, diversified with hills, through the
valleys and vistas of which goes the railroad, with dells diverging from
it on either hand, and streams and arched bridges, and old villages, and
a hundred pleasant English sights. After passing Rochdale, however, the
dreary monotony of Lancashire succeeded this variety. Between nine and
ten o'clock I reached the Tithebarn station in Liverpool. Ever since
until now, May 17th, I have employed my leisure moments in scribbling off
the journal of my tour; but it has greatly lost by not having been
written daily, as the scenes and occurrences were fresh.
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