From the shore we went up into the town, which is handsome, and of a
cheerful aspect, with streets generally wide and well paved,--a cleanly
town, not smoke-begrimed. The houses, if not modern, are, at least with
few exceptions, new fronted. We saw one relic of antiquity,--a fine
mediaeval gateway across the principal street, much more elevated than
the gates of Chester, with battlements at the top, and a spacious
apartment over the great arch for the passage of carriages, and the
smaller one on each side for foot-passengers. There were two statues in
armor or antique costume on the hither side of the gateway, and two old
paintings on the other. This, so far as I know, is the only remnant of
the old wall of Southampton.
On Monday the morning was bright, alternating with a little showeriness.
U----, J-----, and I went into the town to do some shopping before the
steamer should sail; and a little after twelve we drove down to the dock.
The Madeira is a pleasant-looking ship enough, not very large, but
accommodating, I believe, about seventy passengers. We looked at my
wife's little stateroom, with its three berths for herself and the two
children; and then sat down in the saloon, and afterwards on deck, to
spend the irksome and dreary hour or two before parting. Many of the
passengers seemed to be Portuguese, undersized, dark, mustachioed people,
smoking cigars. John Bull was fairly represented too. . . . . U---- was
cheerful, and R----- seemed anxious to get off.
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