I suppose there are
not many of these coaches now running on any road in Great Britain; but
this appears to be the genuine machine, in all respects, and especially
in the round, ruddy coachman, well moistened with ale, good-natured,
courteous, and with a proper sense of his dignity and important position.
U----, J-----, and I mounted atop, S-----, nurse, and R----- got inside,
and we bowled off merrily towards the hearts of the hills. It was more
than half past nine when we arrived at Newby Bridge, and alighted at the
Swan Hotel, where we now are.
It is a very agreeable place: not striking as to scenery, but with a
pleasant rural aspect. A stone bridge of five arches crosses the river
Severn (which is the communication between Windermere Lake and Morecambe
Bay) close to the house, which sits low--and well sheltered in the lap of
hills,--an old-fashioned inn, where the landlord and his people have a
simple and friendly way of dealing with their guests, and yet provide
them with all sorts of facilities for being comfortable. They load our
supper and breakfast tables with trout, cold beef, ham, toast, and
muffins; and give us three fair courses for dinner, and excellent wine,
the cost of all which remains to be seen. This is not one of the
celebrated stations among the lakes; but twice a day the stage-coach
passes from Milnethorpe towards Ulverton, and twice returns, and three
times a little steamer passes to and fro between our hotel and the head
of the lake.
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