"Dim
Sassenach," said he, after a pause. How odd that an hour or two on the
railway should have brought me amongst a people who speak no English!
Just below the castle, there is an arched stone bridge over the river
Clwyd, and the best view of the edifice is from hence. It stands on a
gentle eminence, commanding the passage of the river, and two twin round
towers rise close beside one another, whence, I suppose, archers have
often drawn their bows against the wild Welshmen, on the river-banks.
Behind was the line of mountains; and this was the point of defence
between the hill country and the lowlands. On the bridge stood a good
many idle Welshmen, leaning over the parapet, and looking at some small
vessels that had come up the river from the sea. There was the frame of
a new vessel on the stocks near by.
As I returned, on my way home, I again inquired my way of a man in
breeches, who, I found, could speak English very well. He was kind, and
took pains to direct me, giving me the choice of three ways, viz. the one
by which I came, another across the fields, and a third by the embankment
along the river-side. I chose the latter, and so followed the course of
the Clwyd, which is very ugly, with a tidal flow and wide marshy banks.
On its farther side was Rhyddlan marsh, where a battle was fought between
the Welsh and Saxons a thousand years ago. I have forgotten to mention
that the castle and its vicinity was the scene of the famous battle of
the fiddlers, between De Blandeville, Earl of Chester, and the Welsh,
about the time of the Conqueror.
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