We ascended the short flight of steps that led up into
the tower, where an old man pointed out the site of the battle-field, now
thickly studded with buildings, and told us what we had already learned
from the guide-book. After this we went into the cathedral, which I will
perhaps describe on some other occasion, when I shall have seen more of
it, and to better advantage. The cloisters gave us the strongest
impression of antiquity; the stone arches being so worn and blackened by
time. Still an American must always have imagined a better cathedral
than this. There were some immense windows of painted glass, but all
modern. In the chapter-house we found a coal-fire burning in a grate,
and a large heap of old books--the library of the cathedral--in a
discreditable state of decay,--mildewed, rotten, neglected for years.
The sexton told us that they were to be arranged and better ordered.
Over the door, inside, hung two failed and tattered banners, being those
of the Cheshire regiment.
The most utterly indescribable feature of Chester is the Rows, which
every traveller has attempted to describe. At the height of several feet
above some of the oldest streets, a walk runs through the front of the
houses, which project over it. Back of the walk there are shops; on the
outer side is a space of two or three yards, where the shopmen place
their tables, and stands, and show-cases; overhead, just high enough for
persons to stand erect, a ceiling.
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